Goedendag citroen fans! Mijn naam is Mr. Janis Rubins. Ik kom uit Letland. Ik zal vertalen van Engels naar Dutch met GoogleIn. ons land zijn slechts enkele DS-citroenen. Ik denk dat 5 of 6. niet meer. We hebben één DS, 1973 Year model, 5 gang. citroen koopt 2 jaar geleden in Nederland van Jelle Bloom. nu is het hersteld maar kan het niet rijden omdat het altijd oververhit raakt. eerst veranderden we de radiator. Mark Hidding heeft veel geholpen met onderdelen. geen verandering. nog steeds oververhit. toen veranderden we de verwarmingsmatrix, de radiatorkop - nieuwe, herziene waterpomp ... nog steeds oververhit. vervolgens monteur motor demonteren en motorafdichting vervangen.
thermostaat nieuw, motorpakking nieuw, radiator vervangen, vele malen gespoeld met chemicaliën, radiatorkop nieuw.
maar wat denk jij? Ja, het is nog steeds oververhit. Mystieke motor. Help alsjeblieft wat te doen. Een Duitser ( Sebastian Kirsch) suggereert misschien om de auto-ontsteking te controleren. kan het een ontstekingsprobleem zijn? is het mogelijk om de ontsteking verkeerd in te stellen en zal de auto normaal rijden? of misschien is het probleem in de oliepomp of is het oliefilter verkeerd geïnstalleerd?
zal wachten Uw hulp! bedankt! prettig weekend

If the engine is like this ........you won’t get it away with any chemicals.
Are you sure that all the channels are clean ?

I think most of us like it in english because google translate ...............

Janis, English works better then google translate.
The ignition timing has an influence on the burning of the mixture en hence on the temperature in the combustion space and hence in engine itself but it needs to be way off to have an overheating effect and then you will only see it when you run the engine at reasonable speed and the effect will be first on the pistons, you will burn holes in them (by the excess of oxygen that will oxidise the alu at high temperature, not by melting..)
Are you sure you have all the water hoses connected at the right place? ( I assume yes, but we all make errors).
You mean by overheating the engine “blows out” the cooling fluid? Does it do this at idle, just after you started or when running on the road?
Did you check the radiator temperature if that happens? If the radiator temperature is below 95 degrees ( IR meter on the outside) it should not boil: Then it is either “locally” overheating, which means you have a hot-spot somewhere in the engine OR you don’t have enough fluid circulation through the radiator ( hence my question on the connections of the hoses) OR you have exhaust gas entering in the water circuit by other a leaking head-gasket or a crack somewhere in the head.  needless to says that if your thermostat stays closed you will overheat also, hence checking the radiator temperature ! You can also feel by hand the radiator hoses, they should become really hot.
Good luck !

Perhaps a stupid question: how do you conclude the engine is to hot? Do you see smoke , do you smell something, is there a problem with driving smootly or is your dashboard telling you “The engine is too hot”?

I just read the previous reaction, but i think my questions are still valuable because you have change and repaired a lot.

Although not an answer to your question,
DS-TT has made many instructional movies about the DS maintanance, with English subtitling.
Including how to check the ingnition, the valve clearance and changing the head gasket

DS-TT English

did you have check your radiator cap sometime it cannot hold the pressure that can have the result of cooking too.

Thanks for answers!

Engine overheat like this - you start car. Drive it. 20 -25 min ok. After stop light in dashboard and boiling water in radiator. Cup is new. Thermostat new. Try without thermostat - the same.
Upper hose is very hot. This is the situation

With the thermostat removed, can you see a flow of coolant in the top of the radiator? If not, maybe a defective waterpump. If you see a flow, maybe check for a blown headgasket. Did you take the radiator out and bring it to a specialist to have it cleaned? What you can buy in car parts shops is often not sufficient.

Hi, Radiator is ordered used from Netherlands ( from Mark Hidding). Mechanic radiator flushed many times with chemicals. closed all holes etc. radiator seems ok. Head gasket is new. Mechanic changed it. also after change gasket engine overheats. regarding flow of the coolant in top of radiator will check.

What exact type of engine and cooling system are we dealing with? There are a lot of problems that all D-models have in common, but there are at least two main types of cooling system and they are somewhat different to deal with, ignition timing varies between engine types, carburettors differ between engine types or it may be an IE model which all affects mixture & related settings, etc. So to answer your question in more detail it would be good to know what set-up your DS is running.

Also, I think I’m not the only one here who’d like to see pictures of the car, so by all means post some

Derk

Easy check: pump belts oke? Second check: no air bubbles,If that:  bleed the system. (dutch: ontlucht het systeem).

Belts are ok. Pump opened. seems very good. all fluid changed 3 times. Now is changed new head gasket. new fluid. There is no air bubbles…. Mystical car.  Today I ask this mechanic to make a pictures. will send pictures and more info. Thanks all for help!

Jeroen Simons schreef:

Easy check: pump belts oke? Second check: no air bubbles,If that:  bleed the system. (dutch: ontlucht het systeem).

As you may know, the DS cooling system is an open system, so there is no need to bleed (it doesn’t even have bleeding screws). Now if you want to make sure there is no air in the system you just let it run for short time with the radiator cap open or off and the heater on “Hot”.

5 euro at Wish.

Check the temp all over the radiator surface. You might also do it with a spray bottle:

Fill the bottle with clean water and pray it over the whole radiator surface. In case a part of it stays wet for a longer time, that part is blocked.

Below the exhaust manifold you will find a 10 mm bolt. I made a connection there by using a 6 to 10 mm in order to connect the garden hose to it.

Lots of brown filthy coolfluid came out of the engine.

Succes!

In addition to that, I’d like to note that citroen23 is right and that, if the cooling system contains that kind of grit, no amount of chemical flushing in-situ will cure that. What’s more, if the engine is sitting with old coolant/antifreeze in it, the head itself gets attacked by the old coolant because it will become corrosive to light-alloy over time. Crystallized coolant and even small chunks of corroded metal can easily block up the coolant passages in the head with there hardly being any way to flush this out without having the head off.

Now, the head has been off so it’s useful to know what work has been done to the head: was it cleaned inside and out? Has any pressure testing been done to the head to determine if there aren’t any cracks or other damage to the casting?

It’s sometimes difficult to tell whether or not the coolant passages in a cilinder head are blocked or not. I learned that one the hard way, having driven my DS with an absolutely filthy, corroded cooling system and thus having to flush the system about every second week… Every now and again I would be able to poke open a passage that hadn’t even been visible before! Which is relatively OK as long as you’re not digging out passages that shouldn’t be there Flushing the engine did get rid of a lot of rust inside the cilinder block though, and might clean the head out if it’s not too blocked up.

Derk

ok. at Monday will be detailed news how is going on. and + photos. I need to make them 500 kb, bigger here do not possible. Thanks!:smt023