I drove the 23 DX4 with carburettor with the normal radiator. No heating problems ever.

I think you are right to investigate the water pump, if there is too much play between the impeller and the house it does not pump enough. Not having the bigger radiator would only create a problem at full power. You will notice this at lower speeds when you drive up to a mountain or at higher speeds on the highway.
I see the LPG reducer is still connected to the water system. I think it would be wise to disconnect the water hoses and make sure it’s all in their original position.
The suggestion to use an IR temperature meter to look at the components when hot also helps a lot.

SalsaChris schreef:

Did you ran the car with or without the interior heating on? I had this problem after I removed the radiator for maintenance. Chances are that you have an air bubble there = highest point of the system.

This in combination with another topic of this topicstarter about the heater not functioning properly makes me think…

Mr.Rubins schreef:

LPG is disconnected now. Engine run without LPG.

Only disconnected, or did you take it out? If the coolant is still passing through the lpg reducer an internal leak in the membrane could cause the same phenomena. I struggled with an overheating Saxo for days before I found out (thank you Google) it was due to the reducer.

Hi, Can You post here drawings or photos?  or send to my email: .(JavaScript moet ingeschakeld zijn om dit e-mail adres te bekijken) or whatsapp: +37129513288

How look DS23 engine with big radiator and separate tank and how all pipes must be connected?
And how look DS engine standard cooling system drawing.

We speak with mechanic. He will test all with digital thermometer, too
He think that owner of this car in Netherlands changed engine. Maybe there was not right installed pipes and they did not know exactly what is difference between engines. After they drive and see that car overheat and decided to sell.

This DS have plates on car:
DS serie FD
01FD5802
and other plate
S.A.A citroen
0039. 252413

This is what my car (DS23/DX4) looks like under the bonnet:

Left side

Right side

Rear view of the radiator

Mechanical + electrical fans

Separate expansion tank

Two types of this tank exist, one with the hose connenction to the front of the tank, closer to the radiator (as shown) and one with the hose connection to the back, closer to the cilinder head - the last type is IE only as it routes the hose from the tank around the other side of the distributor.

And this is the thermo-switch for the extra cooling fan

There are a few more differences that are difficult to photograph on an installed engine, such as the different ‘elbow’ in the lower radiator hose, which has two small pipes instead of one (pic from citrotech.nl):

The top brace for the radiator is also different as it needs to support the expansion tank and pass the LHM hose differently. Also, the expansion tank is mounted on two silent blocs attached to the hoist lug on the water pump. And, of course, due to the different shape of the radiator the ‘bag’ that connects the air duct to the radiator is different and needs its own support frame. Then there’s the hose from the expansion tank to the lower radiator hose/‘elbow’ and a couple of thin hoses connecting from the expansion tank to the overflow tap and to the top of the radiator. If you were to use an original electric fan, you’d also have to adapt or replace your current mechanical fan as it will have to fit round the motor for the electric fan. The electric fan also has its own relay and a small, fairly easy to build wiring loom.

The water pump, main connection hoses, heater hoses and general routing are the same as on a normal cooling system. There are some extra hoses spliced into the heater circuit on my car as I’m running it on LPG, but they are of no concern in an original set-up.

Derk

This ( old ) standard 2 liter radiator is to small for the 2,3 engine .

Reverse to the 2,3 setup ( closed radiator and separate tank )

or try with a newly rebuild radiator with 3 rows of cooling tubes .

But no guaranty this will work .

Walter

Thanks for photos! Derk’s car looks like new!

So to make all to work need to make list that need to buy:

- bigger radiator ( old one, smaller maybe can sell to someone?)
- radiator tank;
- top brace for the radiator;
-  two silent blocs attached to the hoist lug on the water pump;
- Then there’s the hose from the expansion tank to the lower radiator hose/‘elbow’;
-  a couple of thin hoses connecting from the expansion tank
- the ‘bag’ that connects the air duct to the radiator

is it all?
Maybe someone have these parts for offer?

Regards!

First thing to do, by my opinion, is to check all your coolant hoses for the correct place and connection. The suggestion done earlier that both the lack of heat with your interior heating and the heating problems with your car might indicate that hoses are not connected correct.
Also the LPG unit that apparently is still part of your coolant system might give problems, so check all those things before spending money on stuff that might not be the problem.

Good luck!

Interior heat, such as that problem was described, was not an issue as the main dashboard vents are not designed to pass hot air. If there’s no heat to the defroster openings, the small dash vents and the footwells, that might indeed indicate a circulation problem.

Derk

Hi, still looking for problem. I here write about friends car, they have problem with DS 23 engine heating. And 2nd topic is about my car DS 20. I have this problem with inside heating. So there is 2 cars. Will send later updated info when solve problems. Thanks!

to make my previous post complete :

where is the thermostate located ? IN the hose or in the waterpump mounting plate on the cilinderhead ?

You can TRY to place an electric fan in front of the radiator to get more cooling .

You can always keep this electric fan when you ( have to ) change to the other radiator setup .

Walter

Hi, mechanic have time to check akk.
It seems that water pump is not working.
Take out pipe. Can see water, but it is not moving.
Only some small movement, like shaking water.
How to test if it is right water pump?
And is it possible to repair it?

Photo1

Photo1